IDEAS

WHAT, WHY, WHO IS COSPLAY

or a few facts about a new form of identity

By Tony Liu

On June 1st, 2024. Under the blazing sun with temperatures reaching 35°C (95 Fahrenheit), I arrived at a slightly remote area in Beijing. As soon as I stepped out of the taxi, I was hit by a wave of heat. Carrying my heavy camera bag, I felt a bit out of place, dressed like an ordinary man amid a sea of red hair, blue hair, purple hair, wigs, wings, masks, all of which must have weighed several pounds. My friend had spent several hundred yuan (close to 100 dollars) to custom-order her wig, and just watching her put it on made me sweat. Where was I?

I was at a cosplay convention. Despite my previous unfamiliarity with this cultural phenomenon, my friend had invited me to come along and I guess the whole idea piqued my curiosity, I was cosplay curious.

Long Lines

As I took in the vibrant scene, I noticed that some people’s wigs weren’t just simple online purchases—they were carefully crafted masterpieces of highly-skilled perruquiers. That’s the fancy French word for wig-makers, but we can also call them wig stylists. These stylists create custom wigs for cosplayers and post their work on social media, where tons of people buy or rent them. The prices vary widely—some wigs go for just thirty, forty dollars, while others can cost hundreds or even thousands. I like to call them “wig artists” because they design wigs specifically tailored to each individual person and the character they want to play. They can achieve the right color, shape, and even those “defy-gravity” styles you see in anime. For example, if a character’s hair is supposed to float in midair, they’ll use lightweight metal or other firm materials as a support frame within the wig to hold everything up. Smaller details are handled with tons of hairspray, which of course makes the wig heavier. Sometimes, a wig is so valuable that the stylist follows the cosplayer around the entire event just to keep an eye on it.

With these bright, colorful wigs leading the way, I finally made my way into the exhibition area. Even before entering, there were crowds snapping photos. I was already sweating through my T-shirt, the gray fabric darkened with sweat, but none of this seemed to slow down the cosplayers. Their enthusiasm for photos was high, and their character makeup stayed flawless. How? —thanks to the portable mini-fans many of them brought along to beat the heat.

The costumes are otherworldly

The convention was bustling with activity, teens and young adults, mostly dressed as characters from Chinese video games, Japanese anime, and Western comics. You could see Naruto's Kakashi posing with characters from My Little Pony and Genshin Impact (a Chinese video game). Despite the steam bath temperatures inside the exhibition hall, the passion for embodying their favorite characters was evident in every detail—from each elaborate costume to the ornate and intricate makeup. To do this, you have to have a deep love for the art of dressing up. The cosplay community is clearly united by their shared dedication to not being themselves in the way they full embody their characters.

When I arrived at the exhibition hall, I was surprised to find that nearly a quarter of the space was set up with professional lighting equipment for photographers, which only made it hotter. They offered photo shoots and retouching services for cosplayers who wanted to capture themselves in all their made-up glory, and yes, I mean in both senses. Afterward, they exchanged WeChat information to send and get the final pictures and videos. The photographers were clearly familiar with the scene.

It's a scene and something more

Next to the photo booth were two long lines, each packed with people holding character-themed posters or collectible items. After snapping a few shots of cosplayer models nearby, my curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to investigate the traffic-jam-style line, wanting to see what was at the end of it. And guess what I found? More cosplayers—not that surprising—but why were they here, all dressed up in detailed costumes and makeup?

After chatting with a few fans in line (they proudly called themselves that), I learned that these weren’t just any cosplayers. They were social media-famous cosplayers with fan followings who had attended multiple conventions, building up a large, loyal fan base. Many attendees had actually signed up for the convention just to meet them after spotting their faces on the event posters. It was a win-win; fans got to meet their idols, and the event organizers attracted more visitors and hype. It turns out that large conventions often invite well-known cosplayers with massive followings to boost attendance and draw in crowds. In fact, for a chance to meet the most "super-famous" cosplayers, fans sometimes have to pay for special tickets—it’s become an industry in itself or an industry within an industry.

Among cosplayers, it’s common to address each other as “sensei” (teacher in Japanese) as a polite greeting language. When they see a character they like, they’ll approach the cosplayer to request a photo, which they call “collecting stamps.” At larger conventions, you might even be able to collect photos of all the main characters from your favorite anime. Some people also exchanged contact information and joined group chats to share tips and updates. Others even hire professional makeup artists to do their makeup, and I have to say, these makeup artists are incredibly skilled—their artistry brings even non-human characters vividly to life, like My Little Pony characters.

Cosplayers having fun

As an outsider to the world of cosplay, I have to admit, I’m still trying to wrap my head around how this hobby has transformed into such a massive cultural force. What used to seem like a niche activity for a select few has now exploded into a full-fledged social phenomenon. People from all walks of life are suiting up—whether in elaborate wigs, armor, or detailed costumes—and gathering at conventions to bring their favorite characters to life. It’s no longer just about dressing up for fun; it’s become a way to forge deep connections with others who share the same passions for anime, games, and comics.

And it’s not just about the social aspect. Psychologically, cosplay seems to offer a kind of escape hatch from the pressures of the real world. It allows participants to slip into an alternate persona, stepping away from their everyday identities—even if just for a weekend. In a world where individual expression is more valued than ever, cosplay has surged as a powerful outlet for creativity. What’s even more fascinating is how this once “obscure” hobby has gained such wide acceptance. From the outside looking in, it’s clear that cosplay has come a long way from its early beginnings.

This take organization and community

You know, when you take a closer look at the world of cosplay, interesting issues come up. In Rosenberg and Letamendi’s “Expressions of Fandom” they look into the increasing fervor for cosplay, particularly among younger generations. According to the two researchers, cosplayers are a diverse group: “The average age of participants was 28.4 years old with an age range of 15-50.” This is an intriguing statistic, as I initially thought only Gen Z youth were particularly passionate about such activities. However, this data proves that adults are interested, too. The article highlights 'Fun' as the top reason why respondents cosplay, with 101 respondents rating it as their top choice. Next was 'Because I like the character', followed by it’s 'A vehicle for creative expression', endorsed by 73 respondents as their top choice.

As cosplay has gained traction across age groups, the motivations for participating have become more complex. One might assume it’s merely about dressing up, but the reality is far more nuanced. According Bethan Yorath’s "Cosplay and Mental Health," cosplay can foster a sense of belonging and self-confidence, which extends beyond the convention floors. This reflects the broader psychological appeal that drives many to invest not just time and effort, but also emotional energy into dressing up in such an elaborate manner. It’s not just about embodying a character, it’s about stepping into a different version of oneself and allowing for personal exploration and transformation.

Even the strange are welcome

Yorath, notes that in interviews with the cosplay community: They described the scene as a safe place to explore their own identities and develop social skills, as well as a place that filled them with a sense of belonging and where they felt comfortable to be their true selves. Where the Proteus Effect discusses deindividualization — the potential negative impacts of feeling like you have less responsibility when in a crowd — cosplay seems to provide a situation that is a communal experience, where most people feel a huge sense of responsibility for one another and want to contribute to helping and supporting members of the community where they can.

This reinforces the idea that cosplay is a diverse community where people seek out their niche and find like-minded individuals. However, I believe that these smaller subgroups within the cosplay world can also create a sense of separation from the broader public, forming a sort of bubble that distinguishes them from mainstream society. A study titled "Cosplay: Imaginative Self and Performing Identity" by Osmud Rahman, Liu Wing-sun and Brittany Hei-man Cheung, delves deeper into this transformation. It highlights that cosplay enables individuals to explore new identities and express aspects of themselves that they might not feel comfortable showing in daily life. This act of “performing” a character is not simply playing dress-up, but is part of a larger narrative where the individual momentarily transforms into something else—whether it's a hero, villain, or even a non-human persona. It’s this freedom from societal norms that helps explain why the phenomenon has such broad appeal, from teenagers to adults in their forties and beyond.

Happy People

Moreover, there are some key psychological motivations in cosplaying. According to "The Psychology of Cosplay," many participants find that the act of cosplaying provides a structured way to express complex emotions and identities, operating as a form of self-therapy. The dissociation from one’s real-life persona allows a safe space to express elements of oneself that may otherwise be constrained by social expectations. The research also suggests that, for some, cosplaying is a way to address feelings of inadequacy or low self-esteem by adopting the powerful traits of their favorite characters.

What stood out to me the most is how cosplay has extended beyond conventions and into daily life. With the growing presence of cosplayers in public spaces—whether in shopping malls or parks—it’s clear that this is no longer a niche hobby confined to specialized events. The increasing widespread visibility hints at cosplay's increasing role in self-expression across different cultural and societal settings. But why? What drives people to take on this creative challenge in the first place? Why is there such a significant age range among participants, and why are they willing to invest so much—physically, emotionally, and financially—in these roles?

It's spreading to the subway

Despite the growing body of research on cosplay, we’re still far from truly understanding what drives people to step into these elaborate personas. Scientific studies attempt to decode the motivations—suggesting that cosplay fosters community or addresses feelings of loneliness—but can these findings fully explain this phenomenon? Cosplay is a rapidly evolving trend, and current research often captures only fragments of its meaning.

Cosplay is moving beyond conventions and into everyday life. Just scrolling through Instagram, I’ve seen people wearing fox tails and hopping around in airports or recording videos in furry costumes at children’s play areas. Cosplay is entering public spaces and becoming part of daily life. It’s almost like seeing Halloween costumes on an ordinary day, a sign that dress-up has outgrown the boundaries of specific events. In a way, cosplay is another version of 17th-century masquerade balls to 20th-century cosplay. We're now in a world where dress-up knows no boundaries; this trend is becoming unstoppable.

©Tony Liu and the CCA Arts Review